Jeep grand cherokee crankshaft position sensor symptoms

The jeep ('95 4L) has all the symptoms of a Crank Position Sensor being bad, to the extent that I bought one and spent the day replacing it (could they have picked a worse place to put that thing?!). Jump in and still has the symptoms, cranks, and no start. I have done the checking of wires and all that free stuff, but have yet to do the easy job of cleaning stuff yet, that will get done tomorrow. Checked the codes, get an 11 and a 55, 11 is Crank Position and/or Cam Position Sensor no signal. 55 is end codes, so I know I've only got one. Before I go drop $35+ on a Cam sensor (of which it is not called by any part store, anyone have a PN#?), I'd like to get some input. The wires all look good, stuff is a little dirty, the plug seemed kinda oily, but not too bad. I haven't checked the ASD relay would that need to be reset? How common is a cam sensor going bad? It seems as the Crank sensor is the common one to go, yet mine has 155k on the original. Any input would be appreciated.

The jeep ('95 4L) has all the symptoms of a Crank Position Sensor being bad, to the extent that I bought one and spent the day replacing it (could they have picked a worse place to put that thing?!). Jump in and still has the symptoms, cranks, and no start. I have done the checking of wires and all that free stuff, but have yet to do the easy job of cleaning stuff yet, that will get done tomorrow. Checked the codes, get an 11 and a 55, 11 is Crank Position and/or Cam Position Sensor no signal. 55 is end codes, so I know I've only got one. Before I go drop $35+ on a Cam sensor (of which it is not called by any part store, anyone have a PN#?), I'd like to get some input. The wires all look good, stuff is a little dirty, the plug seemed kinda oily, but not too bad. I haven't checked the ASD relay would that need to be reset? How common is a cam sensor going bad? It seems as the Crank sensor is the common one to go, yet mine has 155k on the original. Any input would be appreciated.

Are you getting spark?

Anyway, the Camshaft Position Sensor is commonly referred to by many names:
Sync signal generator,
Stator,
pick-up coil,
and I even heard someone call it a distributor timing sensor.

Be careful, or the monkey behind the counter will think of CPS and give you a crankshaft sensor. Make it clear that the you want the one in the distributor.

I'd say that's your next best bet...

P.S. That Crankshaft sensor is a b, isn't it? A friend of mine and I spent about 30 minutes getting it in and out. We did it so quickly as he has a lift and I was somehow able to get my arm up in there to pull it out and push it back in...

Right on. Cam sensor it is. I haven't been able to corral anyone to turn it over for me while I hold the plug, so I don't know if I am getting spark.

And yeah, that thing is a real PITA. I'm sure with a lift it woulda been somewhat easier as the drive shaft wouldn't of been right in the way. The trans cables run right over it, the trans tunnel starts to get smaller right there. Running the plug around the back side of the motor was a fun task also. I just don't understand why they didn't place it on the passenger side. But who am I to tell second guess an engineer? haha

Pull the cap, and have someone turn it over while your watching the rotor. If itsnot turning, pull the distributor check for a stripped bronze gear. Just happened to me, cam sensor/pickup won't get a signal if the rotor isn't spinning. Let alone cyl's fire...

Right on. Cam sensor it is. I haven't been able to corral anyone to turn it over for me while I hold the plug, so I don't know if I am getting spark.

And yeah, that thing is a real PITA. I'm sure with a lift it woulda been somewhat easier as the drive shaft wouldn't of been right in the way. The trans cables run right over it, the trans tunnel starts to get smaller right there. Running the plug around the back side of the motor was a fun task also. I just don't understand why they didn't place it on the passenger side. But who am I to tell second guess an engineer? haha

It was easy to reach on my ford... my buddy couldn't get it up there without some tools... luckily I have skinny hands.

Try changing the CPS on a 5.2L. Not fun. Its behind the head on the bell hosuing underneath the EGR cross over tube.

And to top it off it wasn't the problem, turned out the coil was bad. Sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Seemed just like a flaky CPS but the coil is a 100X easier to change.

Since you've got codes on yours I would change out the cam sensor, if that doesn't help look at the coil. Unless you have access to a coil you could borrow off a buddy to try out.....

Try changing the CPS on a 5.2L. Not fun. Its behind the head on the bell hosuing underneath the EGR cross over tube.

And to top it off it wasn't the problem, turned out the coil was bad. Sometimes worked, sometimes didn't. Seemed just like a flaky CPS but the coil is a 100X easier to change.

Since you've got codes on yours I would change out the cam sensor, if that doesn't help look at the coil. Unless you have access to a coil you could borrow off a buddy to try out.....

Look at it this way... you will probably never have to replace that sensor ever again... and it won't leave you stranded. That's how I looked at it when I replaced mine... You never know when those damn things will go... and as they get older they seem to get flakier.

A little update:
Pulled my coil, it was cracked, replaced that. Went ahead and put in a new cam sensor too. Went to start it, turned over started to fire (had fuel at the valve, I assume it is enough), and now just cranking. Battery gauge is reading low, even though I had it charged (guess I'll stick it back on the charger). Checked the codes again, and all I get is the 12 code- battery disconnected recently. I also switched the ASD relay with the ABS relay just because I am trying anything at this point. I'm pretty sure the alarm is deactivated, I have never had a problem with using the key in the door after a battery disconnect to de-arm it. I've lost my key fob (that bastard didn't work until I was at the drivers door anyway, even then had to click it a couple of times, faster just to use the key). Reading through that posted link now. This is taking forever cause its been cold, and I have no where to be anyway, but I'm ready to drive my jeep, and starting to get kind of pissed.

My only guess now is that it is the voltage of the battery (I've had this problem before, but for different reasons), and it was low on some coolant. Would some liquid (just looks wet, not dripping or anything) around where the plastic meets the metal on the coolant sensor indicate a bad coolant temp sensor? I replaced my thermostat about a month ago, and am curious if the sensor got toasted.