Kohler command pro 27 voltage regulator location

May 1, 2019 / Location of rectifier-regulator on Kohler KT730?

I am in the process of replacing the rectifier-regulator on my Kohler KT730-3012, but I cannot locate it. The service manual states that the “Rectifier-regulator is mounted on backing shroud assembly.” However, I am not able to find it. Is it actually under the shroud? Although there are numerous images on Google for the rectifier-regulator on other Kohler engines in plain sight, not so for the KT730. Can anyone help me locate it. Thanks.

Table of Contents Show

Where is the voltage regulator located?
What does a regulator rectifier do on a Kohler engine?
What charges the battery on a Kohler engine?

May 2, 2019 / Location of rectifier-regulator on Kohler KT730?

if you look under the left rear corner of the blower housing above and slightly toward the rear of the oil filter on the flat metal plate it will be mounted there held in with 2 8mm headed bolts.

If you look at the following diagram item 4 which is the plate backing on the right hand side of that item in the picture there is what appears to be a rectangular cutout. The regulator is mounted in the hole and is accessed from outside of the engine so you don't have to remove the blower housing or anything else.

https://www.partstree.com/parts/koh...-23hp-17-2kw/blower-housing-group-6-32-22-kt/

May 2, 2019 / Location of rectifier-regulator on Kohler KT730?

ILENGINE,

Thank you for your prompt response. Perhaps I should have been more explicit on my model which is a KT730-3012. I WAS able to locate the rectifier by following your instructions, BUT it can ONLY be removed and replaced by removing the blower housing. See the attached picture. Unfortunately, this did not solve my problem. I suspect that the stator may be bad. I've had problems with this engine ever since I purchased it new. It starts and runs fine, but I'm certain that it is running on the battery only. Again, thanks for your help.

rectifier-regulator.JPG
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May 2, 2019 / Location of rectifier-regulator on Kohler KT730?

ILENGINE,

I just located another Kohler engine pictured with the rectifier-regulator OUTSIDE of the blower housing which shows a ground wire. I don't remember seeing any such wire when I changed out my rectifier-regulator. Could NOT having a ground wire cause the regulator NOT to charge the battery?

no ground?.png
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May 2, 2019 / Location of rectifier-regulator on Kohler KT730?

The regulator in the right side picture has a ground wire because the regulator is mounted to a plastic cover. Your regulator is grounded through the metal plate it is attached to. You have three wires going to the regulator. The center one is the battery wire make sure it has 12v DC to it. may have to turn on the key to make it work. the outside two wires are for the stator with the engine running with a meter attached between those two wires should read a minimum of 28 volts AC.

Also wouldn't hurt to remove the regulator and make sure there isn't any corrosion between the regulator and the metal plate is is attached to.

May 2, 2019 / Location of rectifier-regulator on Kohler KT730?

Ilengine, thank you for addressing the factor of the ground wire. I now better understand how to test for A/C and D/C. I'll run further checks this coming Saturday.

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10-01-2018, 11:53 AM

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Join Date: Nov 2016

Location: MI

Posts: 26

Dealing with voltage regulator on Kohler Command 27?

As I continue to work through my SLT1554 to get everything running correctly, I came up with some questions around the voltage regulator.

I replaced the PTO on the tractor (old unit was trashed) and in the install instructions for the new unit, it is explicitly stated that voltage going to the PTO at full throttle needs to be 13.4-14V. So I check at the battery and find 11.4V. Then I move to the voltage regulator:

- 46-47V AC from the stator
- 11.4V DC from the output (B)

Based on what I was able to find, 46-47V AC is ok so I thought I had a bad regulator; about everything else electrical on this thing was bad, so it did not surprise me. I plug a new one in and get some improvement (12V) but no where near 13.4V+.

Now I'm digging around trying to figure out why I'm only getting 12V DC at the regulator output at full throttle when it should be higher. I found several posts across several forum boards that a bad ground may be the problem, or in my case, no ground! Sounds like the body of the regulator should be grounded but there is no wire or strap for mine. I could easily make a wire to run from the regulator screw to the Neg. terminal on the battery, but wanted to make sure this is worth my effort! I would also appreciate it if someone could tell me if the values for the stator are good.

Thanks!

10-01-2018, 12:39 PM

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When you measured the voltage.. Did you measure between both AC wires? Or one AC wire to ground?

Also, Are you sure there is a good connection from Battery wire on VR? Sounds like your just reading low battery voltage. I would do all this with a fully charged battery.

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10-01-2018, 01:50 PM

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MAKE SURE, that the V/R is properly grounded. There should be zero ohms resistance between the V/R case (or housing) and the Battery Negative Terminal ( - ).

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Roland Bedell

CC Models: 100, 105, 129, 1450, & 784

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10-01-2018, 02:07 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperino

When you measured the voltage.. Did you measure between both AC wires? Or one AC wire to ground?

Also, Are you sure there is a good connection from Battery wire on VR? Sounds like your just reading low battery voltage. I would do all this with a fully charged battery.

I just went out and retested. Battery is fully charged:

- Left AC contact to ground - 48V
- Right AC contact to ground - 0.01V
- Across both AC contacts - 47-48V AC
- B+ to ground - 12.0V DC

Is that right AC contact supposed to be measuring that low? And I have not inspected the battery wire yet. It disappears up under the engine cover and I'm not sure where it comes back out.

Sounds like I need to install a ground wire.

Thanks!

10-01-2018, 02:19 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by zuren

I just went out and retested. Battery is fully charged:

- Left AC contact to ground - 48V
- Right AC contact to ground - 0.01V
- Across both AC contacts - 47-48V AC
- B+ to ground - 12.0V DC

Is that right AC contact supposed to be measuring that low? And I have not inspected the battery wire yet. It disappears up under the engine cover and I'm not sure where it comes back out.

Sounds like I need to install a ground wire.

Thanks!

I hope your ground wire fixes it, but I’m doubtful.
That AC is kinda high. But we will see....

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Terry

O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105
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10-01-2018, 02:58 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Terry C

I hope your ground wire fixes it, but I’m doubtful.
That AC is kinda high. But we will see....

I think Terry is correct.. I went online and found the testing procedures.. Easier than typing it all out... Hope this helps.

PROBLEM 1: NO CHARGE TO BATTERY
TEST 1: trace B+ lead from rectifier-regulator to key switch, or other accessible connection. Disconnect it from switch or connection. Connect an ammeter from loose end of B+ lead to positive terminal of battery. Connect DC voltmeter from loose end of B+ lead to negative terminal of battery. With engine running at 3,600 rpm, read voltage on voltmeter.
If voltage is 13.8 volts or more, place a minimum load of 5 amps* on battery to reduce voltage. Observe ammeter.
*NOTE: turn on lights, if 60 watts or more. Or place a 2.5 ohm, 100 watt resistor across battery terminals.
CONCLUSION 1: if voltage is 13.8 to 14.7 and charge rate increases when load is applied, the charging system is okay and battery was fully charged.
If voltage is less than 13.8 or charge rate does not increase when load is applied, test stator (test 2, 3, and 4 below).

TEST 2:Remove connector from rectifier-regulator. With engine running at 3,600 rpm, measure AC voltage across stator leads using an AC voltmeter.
CONCLUSION 2: if voltage is 28 volts or more, stator is okay. Rectifier-regulator is faulty. Replace the rectifier-regulator.
If voltage is less than 28 volts, stator is probably faulty and should be replaced. Test stator further using an ohmmeter (tests 3 & 4 below).

TEST 3: with engine stopped, measure the resistance across stator leads using an ohmmeter.
CONCLUSION 3: if resistance is .064/0.2 ohms, stator is okay.
If resistance is infinite ohms, stator is open. Replace stator.

TEST 4: with engine stopped, measure the resistance from each stator lead to ground using an ohmmeter.
CONCLUSION 4: if resistance is infinite ohms (meaning that there is no continuity), the stator is okay (not shorted to ground).
If resistance (or continuity) is measured, the stator leads are shorted to ground. Replace stator.

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10-01-2018, 03:02 PM

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Quote:

- Left AC contact to ground - 48V
- Right AC contact to ground - 0.01V
- Across both AC contacts - 47-48V AC
- B+ to ground - 12.0V DC

NOT the correct way to check the V/R out. See.... https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...read.php?t=368

Per the Service Manual, correct AC Voltage is 28 to 30 VAC. The correct DC Voltage is 13.7 with it no higher than 14.7VDC.

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Roland Bedell

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10-01-2018, 10:20 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperino

I think Terry is correct.. I went online and found the testing procedures.. Easier than typing it all out... Hope this helps.

I did not have a ton of time tonight and did not want to fire up the engine but I did try a couple of the tests above:

- I already essentially did Test 2 and get 47-48V. Comments here are that is too high, but the test states that anything above 28V is passing so I'm not sure how to interpret this.

- I performed Test 3 and got 0.1-0.2 ohms on my meter. That seems to be a pass. My meter only reads out to xxx.x, not x.xxx, so I would not be able to read out 0.064. But it definitely was not open line (OL).

- I performed Test 4 on both AC leads and my meter read O.L. As far as I know, that is the same as infinite resistance. If that is true, that test seems to pass.

The link seems to be a graphical explanation of Test 3.

I will redo all of this tomorrow when I have more time, but wanted to get a response back. Tomorrow I'll set up a ground wire, right after I replace a bad fuel line that suddenly started leaking.

Thanks!

10-02-2018, 12:09 AM

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Location: Oblong, Illinois

Posts: 17,617

Quote:

Originally Posted by zuren

I just went out and retested. Battery is fully charged:

- Left AC contact to ground - 48V
- Right AC contact to ground - 0.01V
- Across both AC contacts - 47-48V AC
- B+ to ground - 12.0V DC

Is that right AC contact supposed to be measuring that low? And I have not inspected the battery wire yet. It disappears up under the engine cover and I'm not sure where it comes back out.

Sounds like I need to install a ground wire.

Thanks!

Quote:

Originally Posted by zuren

- I already essentially did Test 2 and get 47-48V. Comments here are that is too high, but the test states that anything above 28V is passing so I'm not sure how to interpret this.

If you did test #2 as you stated in the first post of yours I quoted, you are doing it wrong. No wonder you are getting goofy readings. Look at the picture in the link Roland posted. Forget the 5 paragraphs Coop posted. That's a lot of mumbo-jumbo to read. This is an incredibly easy test to perform.

One more thing.... if you disconnect the wire that goes from the R/R to the battery, (center wire) and just try to test the power coming from it, you will get nothing, or whatever nominal battery voltage is. That terminal won't put out anything unless it is connected to a load. See. Didn't take 5 paragraphs to explain that.

10-06-2018, 04:22 PM

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Join Date: Nov 2016

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Posts: 26

Ok, I was sick for several days and a squirrel chewed my fuel line, so I had a couple delays. Installed a new fuel line and was able to continue testing...

So with the connector removed from the VR, and testing each stator wire to ground, I get a stable 19.00V AC from each wire. So it looks like I'm reading very low...

When I test the center connector (battery) to ground, I get 12.36V DC. When I measure the voltage of the battery at the terminals, I get 12.38V DC. This seems to be pretty close.

I installed a new ground wire to the VR, but have not run the engine yet with the VR connector attached (ran out of time).

Thanks!

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Where is the voltage regulator located?

On most vehicles, the voltage regulator is either located inside of the alternator or mounted to it. But vintage vehicles often have an external voltage regulator, which may be mounted to the fender well, firewall, etc. It's also important to note that some modern vehicles do not have a voltage regulator at all.

What does a regulator rectifier do on a Kohler engine?

Voltage regulators on Kohler engines are responsible for providing a smooth electrical charge back to the battery from the stator. When the regulator malfunctions, it can either drain the battery or cause an overcharging that can damage the battery or the wiring harness.

What charges the battery on a Kohler engine?

The Kohler 25 HP engine uses a flywheel magnet system to generate electricity. The magnets spin on the flywheel and charge with electricity to deliver voltage. If the magnets are not charged, then there is no electricity to supply to your battery via the regulator-rectifier.

kohler command pro voltage regulator location

Kohler command pro 27 voltage regulator location

Where is the voltage regulator located?

What does a regulator rectifier do on a Kohler engine?

What charges the battery on a Kohler engine?

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