Difference between cocoa powder and dutch cocoa powder

These types of cocoa aren't always interchangeable. Here's how to know which cocoa to use when.

Craving a bite of brownie, a sip of hot cocoa, or a spoonful of chocolate pudding? You're going to need cocoa powder, the key flavoring agent that makes these and countless other sweet treats downright irresistible. But did you know there are two types of cocoa powder—natural cocoa and Dutch-process cocoa—each with its own distinct color, flavor, and composition? Here's how know exactly which type of cocoa to use when.

Types of Cocoa Powder

Cocoa powder is made from cocoa beans, just like chocolate. The beans are fermented, roasted, and hulled, and the resulting cocoas nibs are turned into a paste, which is then pressed to remove most of the cocoa butter. What's left is dried and ground to become the substance we know as cocoa powder. The difference between types of cocoa powder lies in how they are processed before they are ground. 

Dutch-Process Cocoa

To make Dutch-process, or alkalized, cocoa powder—also sometimes called "European-style cocoa"—the cocoa beans are first soaked or washed in an alkaline solution made with potassium carbonate or sodium bicarbonate. Once dried, they are finely ground to a powder. Baked goods made with Dutch-process cocoa have a dark brown, almost black hue, like our favorite One-Bowl Chocolate Cake and these Dark-and-White Chocolate Shortbread Hearts.

Natural Cocoa

Natural, or non-alkalized, cocoa powder is made from pure cocoa beans that are simply roasted and ground. Baked goods made with natural cocoa powder are a lighter, more reddish brown than ones made with Dutch-process. Try the natural variety in our winning Texas Sheet Cake or Hot Cocoa with Almond Milk.

Similarities and Differences

Compare these two varieties of cocoa side by side and you'll notice that the natural cocoa powder is lighter in color, almost reddish brown. Dutch-process appears much darker, nearly black, and this color is reflected in baked goods made with each type. You might think that the darker colored powder would have a more intense chocolate flavor, but the opposite is true. In the process of alkalization, the cocoa beans lose some of their acidity, so the powder takes on a milder, less bitter flavor. (The whole point of alkalization is to remove some of the acidity, actually.) You might also notice differences in aroma. 

Some pastry chefs and professional bakers prefer the mild flavor of Dutch-process cocoas in baked desserts—it's the variety we use most often in our recipes—while others point to the bolder, almost fruity flavor that comes from natural, non-alkalized powder. 

When the Cocoas Are Interchangeable

If a recipe simply calls for 'unsweetened cocoa powder,' you can usually use either type. This is especially true for sauces, frostings, puddings, ice creams, and hot cocoa (anything unbaked).

When and Why to Use a Specific Variety

Things get a little more tricky with substituting one for the other when you're baking a cake, cookie, or other treat that requires baking powder or baking soda for leavening. The difference in acidity between the two cocoa powders affects the way they interact with these leavening agents, which themselves boast varying levels of acidity and alkalinity. 

As a general rule, recipes that call for natural cocoa powder also include baking soda, while those that specifically require Dutch-process cocoa also include baking powder among the other ingredients. The same is true for buttermilk, since it's also acidic and will react differently with each powder. (Brownies are often the exception to this rule, as most are made without chemical leaveners, or at least the chewy, fudgy ones—not tender, cakey brownies.) If you frequently bake cakes and cookies (if you've read this far, then you probably do), it's worth stocking both types of cocoa powder in your pantry. 

"Both are delicious," says AmyGuittard, chief marketing officer of Guittard Chocolate Company, and a fifth generation employee of her family's namesake business. Having both gives the home baker a creative advantage, and allows for versatility when baking as each imparts distinct color, aroma, and flavor, she says. 

Guittard isn't suggesting you taste the cocoa powder yourself, however. "Since they are both unsweetened, they are very strong when tasted raw, but they really come to life when used in a recipe along with sweeteners and other ingredients," she says. Rather than tasting, she suggests you try baking the same chocolate cake or cookie recipe twice—once with Dutch-process and next with natural cocoa powder. Keep everything else the same, then do a blind tasting to see if you prefer one to the other.

What’s the difference between natural unsweetened cocoa powder and Dutch-process cocoa powder? Let’s find out!

Maybe you’ve noticed ingredient lists asking for “natural cocoa“, “unsweetened cocoa“, or “Dutch-process cocoa” and wondered— what does it all mean? Are those all different? Can I use whatever cocoa I have in my pantry?

Well, let’s get to the bottom of it! In this post we’re going to break down the different kinds of cocoa powder, and how and when to use them.

What is Cocoa Powder?

First, let’s talk about what cocoa powder actually is. During processing, cocoa butter is removed from the cacao (chocolate) beans and the dried solids left behind are ground into cocoa powder. Cocoa powder is basically the essence of chocolate, without any fat, sugar, or milk.

There are two different kinds of cocoa powder— natural unsweetened and Dutch-process. While you may see a lot of differences from brand to brand based on flavor, color, price, etc., they pretty much all fall under these two categories, or are a blend of the two.

Natural Unsweetened Cocoa Powder

Natural or unsweetened cocoa powder is exactly what you get when the dried roasted cocoa solids are ground up, there is no extra processing (whereas there is more processing for Dutch-process cocoa).

Natural cocoa powder is naturally acidic, has a strong flavor, and has a light reddish-brown color. It’s also the most common type of cocoa powder, with brands like Hershey’s and Ghirardelli.

Dutch-Process Cocoa Powder

Dutch-process cocoa powder (sometimes also labeled as “alkalized” or “European”) is made by coating the cacao beans with an alkaline solution before it’s ground into a powder. This neutralizes the acidity in the cocoa powder, making it more milder in flavor and darker in color. Look for brands like Guittard and Rodelle.

I wouldn’t label either natural or Dutch-process as the “best” cocoa powder to use. They’re just different! Both have their place in baking recipes and both will produce great chocolate flavor.

Does it Matter What Kind of Cocoa Powder You Use?

Most of the time, yes (but not always). Look at the cookies above; the only difference between the two is the kind of cocoa powder I used. On the left those cookies were baked with natural cocoa powder (which is what the recipe called for) and on the right I used Dutch-process cocoa powder.

Natural unsweetened cocoa powder is acidic, while Dutch-process cocoa powder is not, and so both will react differently with other ingredients in a recipe. In my cookies above, the ones on the left have risen properly during baking, while the other ones stayed flat with no rise at all.

When in doubt, use the kind of cocoa specified in the recipe. But if it isn’t clear, or if you’re wondering if you can get away with swapping one for the other, here is what you need to remember— look to see what kind of leavening (if any) the recipe uses, specifically baking soda or baking powder.

If the recipe uses baking soda, it will need the acid in natural cocoa powder to activate it and cause the cake, cookie, etc. to rise properly. If the recipe uses baking powder, or mostly baking powder with a lesser amount of baking soda, then you can probably use Dutch-process cocoa powder or natural cocoa powder.

If the recipe doesn’t have any leavening at all, such as for sauces, ice cream, pudding, etc. both natural and Dutch-process cocoa powder will work, so use what you have or prefer.

My Favorite Cocoa Powder

The kind of cocoa powder I use most often in my baking is Hershey’s Special Dark Cocoa, which is a Dutch-process cocoa. I like it because it’s in almost every grocery store, it’s very affordable, and I like the flavor. In my experience, I’ve also found that it doesn’t seem as “alkalized” as other Dutch-process cocoa powders. For example, I can use it in my soft and chewy chocolate cookies just fine without making any other adjustments.

If I’m concerned about it reacting properly with a recipe that uses baking soda, I will make a blend of it with Hershey’s Unsweetened Cocoa or swap for it altogether. I know it’s not the fanciest cocoa powder out there, but for me I think it has great chocolate flavor.

And now that you know a bit more about the different kind of cocoa powders, feel free to experiment with brands or varieties to find what you like!

Want to Dig a Little Deeper?

This blog post is an overview on cocoa powders and the science behind how they’re used in baking, so if you want to learn more I encourage you to read the following sources. They helped me a lot as I wrote this post.

• The ABCs of Cocoa from King Arthur Baking
• What’s the Difference Between Dutch Process and Natural Cocoa Powder? from Serious Eats
• What is Cocoa Powder from The Spruce Eats

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