I am in the process of replacing the rectifier-regulator on my Kohler KT730-3012, but I cannot locate it. The service manual states that the “Rectifier-regulator is mounted on backing shroud assembly.” However, I am not able to find it. Is it actually under the shroud? Although there are numerous images on Google for the rectifier-regulator on other Kohler engines in plain sight, not
so for the KT730. Can anyone help me locate it. Thanks.
if you look under the left rear corner of the blower housing above and slightly toward the rear of the oil filter on the flat metal plate it will be mounted there held in with 2 8mm headed bolts. If you look at the following diagram item 4 which is the plate backing on the right hand side of that item in the picture there is what appears to be a rectangular cutout. The
regulator is mounted in the hole and is accessed from outside of the engine so you don't have to remove the blower housing or anything else. //www.partstree.com/parts/koh...-23hp-17-2kw/blower-housing-group-6-32-22-kt/
ILENGINE, Thank you for your prompt response. Perhaps I should have been more explicit on my model which is a KT730-3012. I WAS able to locate the rectifier by following your instructions, BUT it can ONLY be removed and replaced by removing the blower housing. See the attached picture. Unfortunately, this did not solve my problem. I suspect that the stator may be bad. I've
had problems with this engine ever since I purchased it new. It starts and runs fine, but I'm certain that it is running on the battery only. Again, thanks for your help. rectifier-regulator.JPG 125.2 KB · Views: 22
ILENGINE, I just located another Kohler engine pictured with the rectifier-regulator OUTSIDE of the blower housing which shows a ground wire. I don't remember seeing any such wire when I changed out my rectifier-regulator. Could NOT having a ground wire cause the regulator NOT to charge the battery? no ground?.png 1.1 MB · Views: 16
The regulator in the right side picture has a ground wire because the regulator is mounted to a plastic cover. Your regulator is grounded through the metal plate it is attached to. You have three wires going to the regulator. The center one is the battery wire make sure it has 12v DC to it. may have to turn on the key to make it work. the outside two wires are for the stator with the
engine running with a meter attached between those two wires should read a minimum of 28 volts AC. Also wouldn't hurt to remove the regulator and make sure there isn't any corrosion between the regulator and the metal plate is is attached to.
Ilengine, thank you for addressing the factor of the ground wire. I now better understand how to test for A/C and D/C. I'll run further checks this coming Saturday.
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As I continue to work through my SLT1554 to get everything running correctly, I came up with some questions around the voltage regulator. I replaced the PTO on the tractor (old unit was trashed) and in the install instructions for the new unit, it is explicitly stated that voltage going to the PTO at full throttle needs to be 13.4-14V. So I check at the battery and find 11.4V. Then I move to the voltage regulator: - 46-47V AC from the stator Based on what I was able to find, 46-47V AC is ok so I thought I had a bad regulator; about everything else electrical on this thing was bad, so it did not surprise me. I plug a new one in and get some improvement (12V) but no where near 13.4V+. Now I'm digging around trying to figure out why I'm only getting 12V DC at the regulator output at full throttle when it should be higher. I found several posts across several forum boards that a bad ground may be the problem, or in my case, no ground! Sounds like the body of the regulator should be grounded but there is no wire or strap for mine. I could easily make a wire to run from the regulator screw to the Neg. terminal on the battery, but wanted to make sure this is worth my effort! I would also appreciate it if someone could tell me if the values for the stator are good. Thanks! |
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When you measured the voltage.. Did you measure between both AC wires? Or one AC wire to ground? Also, Are you sure there is a good connection from Battery wire on VR? Sounds like your just reading low battery voltage. I would do all this with a fully charged battery. __________________ |
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MAKE SURE, that the V/R is properly grounded. There should be zero ohms resistance between the V/R case (or housing) and the Battery Negative Terminal ( - ). __________________ CC Models: 100, 105, 129, 1450, & 784 Buy: Made in the USA |
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Quote: Originally Posted by cooperino
When you measured the voltage.. Did you measure between both AC wires? Or one AC wire to ground? Also, Are you sure there is a good connection from Battery wire on VR? Sounds like your just reading low battery voltage. I would do all this with a fully charged battery. I just went out and retested. Battery is fully charged: - Left AC contact to ground - 48V Is that right AC contact supposed to be measuring that low? And I have not inspected the battery wire yet. It disappears up under the engine cover and I'm not sure where it comes back out. Sounds like I need to install a ground wire. Thanks! |
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Quote: Originally Posted by zuren I just went out and retested. Battery is fully charged: - Left AC contact to ground - 48V Is that right AC contact supposed to be measuring that low? And I have not inspected the battery wire yet. It disappears up under the engine cover and I'm not sure where it comes back out. Sounds like I need to install a ground wire. Thanks! I
hope your ground wire fixes it, but I’m doubtful. __________________ O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 |
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Quote: Originally Posted by Terry C I hope
your ground wire fixes it, but I’m doubtful. I think Terry is correct.. I went online and found the testing procedures.. Easier than typing it all out... Hope this helps. PROBLEM 1: NO CHARGE TO BATTERY TEST 2:Remove connector from rectifier-regulator. With engine running at 3,600 rpm, measure AC voltage across stator leads using an AC voltmeter. TEST 3: with engine stopped, measure the resistance across stator leads using an ohmmeter. TEST 4: with engine stopped, measure the resistance from each stator lead to ground using an ohmmeter. __________________ |
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Quote: - Left AC contact to ground - 48V NOT the correct way to check the V/R out. See.... //www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...read.php?t=368 Per the Service Manual, correct AC Voltage is 28 to 30 VAC. The correct DC Voltage is 13.7 with it no higher than 14.7VDC. __________________ CC Models: 100, 105, 129, 1450, & 784 Buy: Made in the USA |
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Quote: Originally Posted by cooperino
I think Terry is correct.. I went online and found the testing procedures.. Easier than typing it all out... Hope this helps. PROBLEM 1: NO CHARGE TO BATTERY TEST 2:Remove connector from rectifier-regulator. With engine running at 3,600 rpm, measure AC voltage across stator leads using an AC voltmeter. TEST 3: with engine
stopped, measure the resistance across stator leads using an ohmmeter. TEST 4: with engine stopped, measure the resistance from each stator lead to ground using an ohmmeter. I did not have a ton of time tonight and did not want to fire up the engine but I did try a couple of the tests above: - I already essentially did Test 2 and get 47-48V. Comments here are that is too high, but the test states that anything above 28V is passing so I'm not sure how to interpret this. - I performed Test 3 and got 0.1-0.2 ohms on my meter. That seems to be a pass. My meter only reads out to xxx.x, not x.xxx, so I would not be able to read out 0.064. But it definitely was not open line (OL). - I performed Test 4 on both AC leads and my meter read O.L. As far as I know, that is the same as infinite resistance. If that is true, that test seems to pass. The link seems to be a graphical explanation of Test 3. I will redo all of this tomorrow when I have more time, but wanted to get a response back. Tomorrow I'll set up a ground wire, right after I replace a bad fuel line that suddenly started leaking. Thanks! |
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Quote: Originally Posted by zuren I just went out and retested. Battery is fully charged: - Left AC contact to ground - 48V Is that right AC contact supposed to be measuring that low? And I have not inspected the battery wire yet. It disappears up under the engine cover and I'm not sure where it comes back out. Sounds like I need to install a ground wire. Thanks! Quote: Originally Posted by zuren - I already essentially did Test 2 and get 47-48V. Comments here are that is too high, but the test states that anything above 28V is passing so I'm not sure how to interpret this. If you did test #2 as you stated in the first post of yours I quoted, you are doing it wrong. No wonder you are getting goofy readings. Look at the picture in the link Roland posted. Forget the 5 paragraphs Coop posted. That's a lot of mumbo-jumbo to read. This is an incredibly easy test to perform. One more thing.... if you disconnect the wire that goes from the R/R to the battery, (center wire) and just try to test the power coming from it, you will get nothing, or whatever nominal battery voltage is. That terminal won't put out anything unless it is connected to a load. See. Didn't take 5 paragraphs to explain that. |
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Ok, I was sick for several days and a squirrel chewed my fuel line, so I had a couple delays. Installed a new fuel line and was able to continue testing... So with the connector removed from the VR, and testing each stator wire to ground, I get a stable 19.00V AC from each wire. So it looks like I'm reading very low... When I test the center connector (battery) to ground, I get 12.36V DC. When I measure the voltage of the battery at the terminals, I get 12.38V DC. This seems to be pretty close. I installed a new ground wire to the VR, but have not run the engine yet with the VR connector attached (ran out of time). Thanks! |
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