Hey guys, Here's my convoluted and ill-conceived story: I have always wanted to put in an after market steering wheel into my '08 Coupe so I finally decided to pull the trigger on the NRG ST012-S Steering Wheel. I based this decision largely on its price and how it looked in the pictures I've seen on line, which turned out to be my fatal flaw. As
soon as I installed it on my Civic, I immediately detested how it looked! :cornmad: I implore those who are interested in replacing the steering wheel in their Civic to base your purchase decision on more than just Internet pictures because things look totally different in real life. What's even stupider is that I had already sold my OEM steering wheel in a most rash maneuver to score some extra spending cash, so I was stuck with the NRG :turbospin: Anyway, I finally bit the bullet and
bought a new OEM replacement wheel and went ahead with the installation. For anyone who is in my retarded situation or simply needs to remove the steering wheel, hopefully this walk-through will be of assistance to you! Note: Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the radio or the navigation system, and then write down the audio presets. 1) Align the front wheels straight ahead. 2) Disconnect the battery negative cable, and wait at least 3 minutes before
beginning work. 3) Remove the access panel from the steering wheel, and then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector from the cable reel. 4) Remove the two TORX bolts using a TORX T30 bit. 5) Disconnect the horn switch connector, and then remove the driver's airbag. 6) Disconnect the cruise control combination switch, audio remote switch and navigation guide switch connectors (if equipped). 7) Loosen the center steering wheel bolt. 8) Install a
commercially available steering wheel puller on the steering wheel.
9) Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by turning the pressure bolt of the puller.
10) Remove the steering wheel puller, steering wheel bolt, and steering wheel from the steering column.
-To Install-
1) Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead, and then center the cable reel. Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about three full turns. The arrow mark on the cable reel label point should point straight up.
2) Position the two tabs of the turn signal canceling sleeve as shown. Install the steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure the steering wheel hub engages the pins of the cable reel and tabs of the turn signal canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the steering wheel.
3) Install the steering wheel bolt and tighten it to 29 ft. lbs. (39 Nm). Connect the audio remote, navigation guide, and cruise control combination switch connectors (if equipped). Make sure the wire harness is routed and fastened properly.
4) Connect the horn switch connector to the driver's airbag.
5) Place the new driver's airbag in the steering wheel, and secure it with new TORX bolts.
6) Connect the cable reel to the driver's airbag 4P connector, and then install the access panel on the steering wheel.
7) Connect the negative battery cable.
8) Finish the installation, and note these items:
Turn the ignition switch ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off.
Enter the anti-theft code for the radio or navigation system, and then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock.
Verify cruise control, audio remote, voice control and turn signal switch operation.
Make sure the steering wheel is centered.
**Additional diagrams**
Civic Steering Wheel diagram
Good luck guys and remember- like chicks on dating websites, steering wheels can look a heck of a lot different in real life then in their Internet pics! :dancing:
Great writeup. I'd however like to add a bit from my recent install of a 2004 EX sedan wheel...
-- I got a $7 set of Torx bits from Home Depot, and had zero problem breaking the loctite on the first two Torx bolts (T30). Either they fixed the pot-metal problem with the '04-'05 cars, or Honda specs a better supplier for their bolts in Canada (where my car was manufactured). That's of course assuming the OP didn't completely botch loosening the bolt with too much angle or a bad bit.
-- It's a good idea to get a nifty tool magnetizer, esp for the tiny JIS cross-head bolts (Japanese "Phillips") holding the cruise box on. They're black, so will definitely hide well if you drop them in your lap wearing jeans. Nice to have for all your bits and hand drivers...
This is a good one... Wiha (German) tool magnetizer/demagnetizer
-- To add to the OP's comments on marking where the column and wheel should match... I'd go one step further, and use a small ruler -- place the ruler where its edge passes through the mark on the hub, and the center dimple in the splined column... and fine-tip Sharpie a line. I say this, because while doing the procedure to align the signal cancel gizmo behind the hub, it's very, very easy to be off one spline, even with a mark (the splines are quite fine). Making a fine line instead points directly to the cast mark on the hub, so there's less chance of being off. I didn't realize I was one spline off until the shakedown run to re-teach my PCM some manners after the idle learn proc (more on that later).
-- If you're swapping the hub/rim due to sun damage like I did, you'll need to swap over the carrier for the airbag and the plastic backing behind the hub. The carrier (suspended on springs with T40 Torx & rubber washers), has little spring cups with tiny tabs that supposedly hold the springs in place while you position them in their cast cups on the wheel... but after 10+ yrs with that airbag vibrating atop it, you'll probably have one or two fall out. Just place the springs in the hub's cups instead. Don't forget to swap over the cruise box bracket, which is held on with more small black cross-headed screws...
-- Four more small black self-tapping screws hold the plastic hub backing on; just remember which holes they come out of. Use a Sharpie if you're not strong on memory... don't reef on them as they bite into plastic.
-- You can install the cruise box before you put the airbag on... it's a lot easier to attach that green connector this way; doesn't affect the job one bit. You can also prevent cross-threading those tiny black screws if you fit one on your screwdriver, put the screw through the hole, then watch it so it fastens into the box bracket plumb.
-- The OP forgot to mention the idle learn procedure after reconnecting the battery (BTW, the FSM only specifies the negative cable come off, and only specifies three minutes to wait until the backup power in the airbag unit bleeds off). I waited three minutes and nothing bad happened.
Idle learn proc, in case you haven't for some reason come across it yet on this site:
1) Reconnect battery neg and secure terminal. Make sure everything is OFF... lights, A/C, fan, cruise, signals, stereo, etc. Trans in neutral.
2) Preferable to start with a cold engine (which is where waiting 30 mins may be useful, but it's not for the airbag) -- start and rev to 3000 rpm and hold.
3) Continue to keep engine at 3000 rpm, until the fan comes on or coolant temp reaches 194 degF (although if a Bluetooth OBD2 unit is plugged in to read this, isn't that a load you want off? I ended up using the fan to tell me, just feel for hot air hitting your ankle with the door open).
4) Let engine idle for 5 MIN after this... get a timer (used the one on my smartphone) and watch for the fan to come on again. If it does, stop the timer until it goes off, then continue. Engine must have 5 FULL MINS with no electrical loads to figure out idle. When that's done, you're golden.
--
I did the idle learn proc after the first swap (when it was one spline off)... then ran the motor at WOT on an empty stretch of highway here in 3rd (to redline), then drove home normally. Found my off-idle response to be much, much more torquey than before the wheel swap, but equally smooth -- I'd venture it's even smoother than it was before.
Found the wheel crooked at the same time though, so redid the whole proc and installed correctly... idle learn + WOT again, but this time on a warm engine. Idle did not learn as well. So at least IME, if you're doing an idle learn, start with a cold engine.