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5 Symptoms Of A Leaky Oil Pan Gasket
The oil pan gasket seals the oil pan to the bottom of your engine. It prevents an oil leak as the oil circulates from the oil pan to the engine and back, and is subject to enormous pressure, heat, and vibrations.
An oil pan gasket leak could result in insufficient oil levels in the pan, causing your engine to overheat.
Since the oil pan gasket is located at the bottom of the engine, it’s advisable to have it checked during every oil change.
Having said that, here are five signs of a faulty oil pan gasket:
1. Oil Stains Under Your Vehicle
Oil stains beneath your car are clear indicators of an oil leak. You can assess the severity of the leak based on the size of the stains. The larger the stain, the more serious the leak.
These stains can indicate many things, including a leaking oil pan gasket or another engine gasket leak. If left undiagnosed, you could suffer severe engine damage and huge repair costs.
2. Smell Of Burning Oil
The smell of burning oil is another possible sign of a leaking oil pan gasket.
This happens when motor oil leaks through the oil pan gasket onto the hot exhaust pipe, releasing an unpleasant burning oil smell.
In some cases, oil leaks on the exhaust pipe might produce blueish smoke.
So, if you notice either of these signs while driving, have your engine checked at a repair shop. While the oil leak could be due to a faulty oil pan gasket, a burning smell could signify other vehicle issues.
3. Oil Coating On Vehicle’s Undercarriage
A severe leak in your oil pan gasket can cause engine oil to smear onto your vehicle’s undercarriage.
As your vehicle moves and the oil circulates, an oil leak from a faulty oil pan gasket may travel rearwards due to blowback, creating the smear.
So, if a quick check of your vehicle’s underside reveals such stains, you could have a faulty oil pan gasket.
4. Overheated Engine
The engine oil acts as a coolant, keeping the metal part of engine components well lubricated.
However, a faulty oil pan gasket could reduce oil flow, causing friction between the engine’s parts and increasing the engine temperature.
Your vehicle’s temperature gauge will indicate engine overheating in a situation like this. If you see this, you should stop your car, let it cool down, and get your mechanic to take a look.
5. Rapid Oil Loss
A severely compromised oil pan gasket can result in insufficient oil. This can critically damage your engine as the oil pump doesn’t have enough oil to pump to the rest of your vehicle (a leaking motor mount or other serious problems could also cause this).
Fortunately, most modern vehicles have an oil level sensor installed to detect low motor oil levels. So, if your car has a severe oil leak, you’ll see the low oil light illuminated.
If the oil level sensor triggers the low oil light on your dashboard, you should get your vehicle checked for an oil leak and perhaps replace the old gasket.
Note: You can use the dipstick to check if you have a low oil level.
Joined Aug 5, 2005 · 10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Apr 5, 2010 This is on a 1999 STS, and I just found out that the engine needs to be pulled to fix the problem... This is a ridiculous design!!! couple grand worth of labour in order to replace a $25 part that would take anyone 30 mins to do on another car Any suggestions as to what to do for a leaking oil pan gasket? do you guys suggest changing
anything else at the same time? What about a oil treatment that may stop the leak??? anyone modify the subframe so that the sub frame can be bolted in and out making access to the oil pan possible?( i'm a metal fabricator so just thinking a little outside the box) Just not sure what to do....my car is pristine, and i'll be lucky to get $5k on trade but it's also hard to justify the cost of such a fix, especially for such a minor problem(on any other car) 1997 ETC (GAVE TO STEPSON 2011), 2000 DTS (RIP) Joined
Jul 26, 2007 · 1,688 Posts
As I recall, and I could be wrong, but I think the problem is not so much the cradle, it's the cross-under exhaust pipe coming from the front/left bank of the engine that get's in the way. I think I did read that someone once cut that pipe, dropped the pan, and then re-installed the pipe or another replacement piece and welded it back up.
Joined Jun 28, 2003
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1,539 Posts
if the oil pan is leaking, most likey the half case is also, engine has to come out, i dont see anyway someone could drop the pan without doing so, even with cutting the exhaust. The fix is to throw away the silicon seal (while it worked for 10 years) and replace with gm rtv, which is in no way anything like regualr rtv, i think some people dont
realize that, its more like a glue than an rtv. I quoted people $1000 to do the job, it isnt really all that hard, one day to get motor on stand, day to seal it, day to put it back in. And there isnt much in parts cost either. Most shops quote between $2000 and $3000 which is just rediculous, and no special tools are required either. And im not quite so sure than any "other" car you can just fix the oil pan on any fwd vehicle, maybe im wrong.
Joined Nov 4, 2005
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11,038 Posts
I hate to say this but it has been that way since about 1992. I don't do them anymore but when I did I would use an engine support fixture and remove the transmission.
I am kind of surprised that in 18+ years of production that any of this kind of thing comes as a shock to someone.
Remember there is a difference between a "leak" and
"seepage".
I wouldn't waste time and money on a seeping one, but if it is dripping and hitting the floor I'd probably go after it.
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
Joined Feb 26, 2006
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78,224 Posts
...........and it's not a "gasket" - it's a formed silicone seal - sort of like an irregular O-ring. Here's an example, but on a much smaller scale. Click to enlarge. Also, remember that the oil pan is one seal, the halfcase has another: the halfcase with oil pan attached is actually the lower structural member of the block as
well as being the main bearing cap (all 5 mains) as well as a stud girdle for the 4-stud mains. There are no magic potions to pour into the oil. Don't try it. Your Northstar will hate you..........and make you pay for it........
Joined Aug 5, 2005
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 6, 2010
Guys thanks for the info, i'm just coming from other vehicles that are much easier to work on.... Does anyone have a link to a factory service manual or a write up on how to do this, i'm not afraid of digging into jobs like this and have done similar work on my Jeep however I would need to acquire an engine hoist and such tools....along with the
time needed to do it.
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
Joined Feb 26, 2006
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78,224 Posts
The engine, transmission, and cradle, along with the steering rack and struts comes out the bottom - you lift the car off the drivetrain. Down in here there are several threads on drivetrain removal - pour a brew and start going back through old Northstar Performance threads.......... Look at
www.alldatadiy.com and subscribe your car or try www.helminc.com for the GM Service Manual - $135, 2 huge volumes. Maybe eBay - cheaper. Use the User CP, up in the blue bar, to update your login header with your location and car model/year/engine..... like mine ^^^. It sure makes diagnosis easier.
Joined Jan 6, 2010
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6 Posts
Can't believe you bought one of these without knowing about the half-case thing. I recently bought a '99 and made damn sure the seals had been re-done. Now just wondering how long that will last and sure hope the seller (Cad dealership) was telling the truth!
Joined Sep 24, 2003
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3,529 Posts
This is the benefit of FWD...What!?!?!? it's not a benefit? FWD packs everything in a small area. If it's not that is something ekse you can't get to. Not my favorite design unless it's snowing.
Joined Aug 5, 2005
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 6, 2010
Can't believe you bought one of these without knowing about the half-case thing. I recently bought a '99 and made damn sure the seals had been re-done. Now just wondering how long that will last and sure hope the seller (Cad dealership) was telling the truth! I actually bought the car new.... and didn't hear of
any of these issues back then...
Joined Jun 3, 2004
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89,313 Posts
This is the benefit of FWD...What!?!?!? it's not a benefit? FWD packs everything in a small area. If it's not that is something ekse you can't get to. Not my favorite design unless it's snowing. Can I have an AMEN BROTHER!
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
Joined Feb 26, 2006
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78,224 Posts
:lildevil: Amen !!! Even in 1960, ordering a 98 hp (!!!) 4-speed Corvair from Chevy Chase Chevrolet in Bethesda, MD, I had done a slew of homework at local dealerships and repair shops. In 2005, looking for a late 2002 STS, I had done the same, although it was made easier by the Internet. NEVER buy anything mechanical without
knowing all the pro's and con's. Our instant gratification services make it simple....................If I were considering plopping down $46,000 to $55,000 (new Seville TS prices) I'd know a whole hell of a lot about the car before dynamiting a Money Market. Even my 1992 FWD Taurus 3.8 LX was a PITA to work on - ever seen an engine that dumped every ounce of oil in the filter onto the starter motor during a routine oil change ? Wonderful engineering - the 3.0 was the same way.
Joined Sep 24, 2003
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3,529 Posts
Even my 1992 FWD Taurus 3.8 LX was a PITA to work on - ever seen an engine that dumped every ounce of oil in the filter onto the starter motor during a routine oil change ? Wonderful engineering - the 3.0 was the same way. Ugh! I almost forgot that. I'll have nightmares for a week now.
Holy crap. I was going to make a new post about mine. My oil pan actually has a crack in my '99 Eldorado and it is leaking. Not whole lot but a decent little puddle after being parked for a few days. I suspected it would not be an "easy" fix because nothing else on these cars seems to be. Ah well, just more oil I'll have to add on top of the normal oil
consumption of these cars. Cadillac style all the way baby! :banghead:
Joined Jun 3, 2004
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89,313 Posts
Oil pans don't just crack. It must have been bottomed out. Is the crack easy to access? Perhaps if you clean it up real good a little JB Weld will seal it if it is easy to get at.
Oil pans don't just crack. It must have been bottomed out. Is the crack easy to access? Perhaps if you clean it up real good a little JB Weld will seal it if it is easy to get at. It doesn't look bottomed out and I haven't yet seen the actual crack but the guy that sold to me said there was one and I am now
seeing the puddle. There was also a new oil pan in the trunk but now I know why it's in the trunk and not already installed. :helpless:
2002 F55 STS, 2014 Explorer XLT, F-150s
Joined Feb 26, 2006
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78,224 Posts
Drain the oil, warm, with the car up on a lift. Determine the dimensions of the crack. Clean the crack and surrounding area several times with copious amounts of lacquer thinner. After a few cleanings, 10 minutes apart, there should be no more oil seepage from the crack. Now warm the crack with a 100W droplight held against it for 5 minutes.
Clean it again, thoroughly. Apply a 1/2" wide band of 2-part epoxy designed and/or marketed for structural cracks or some such. Let the epoxy cure, then sand the entire band and pan outward for a half inch. Apply another coat of epoxy.
Drain the oil, warm, with the car up on a lift. Determine the dimensions of the crack. Clean the crack and surrounding area several times with copious amounts of lacquer thinner. After a few cleanings, 10 minutes apart, there should be no more oil seepage from the crack. Now warm the crack with a 100W droplight held against it for
5 minutes. Clean it again, thoroughly. Apply a 1/2" wide band of 2-part epoxy designed and/or marketed for structural cracks or some such. Let the epoxy cure, then sand the entire band and pan outward for a half inch. Apply another coat of epoxy. Thanks for the help. I'll give it a shot and let you guys know how it turns out. Probably not for another week or two though. Thanks Sub.
Joined Jun 3, 2004
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89,313 Posts
Before you apply the JB Weld (or whatever you use) be sure to scuff the surrounding area real good with a very coarse sand paper. Give that epoxy something to bite into.
Before you apply the JB Weld (or whatever you use) be sure to scuff the surrounding area real good with a very coarse sand paper. Give that epoxy something to bite into. Will do!:thumbsup: